The first stretch of road leading out of Shenkeng isn’t much to write home about, but the rest of the journey soon makes up for it. The sound of water accompanies you for most of the way, as the trail sticks close to first Jingmei Stream, then Wutuku Stream, going against the flow as you head away from Taipei.
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TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: MUDAN LOOP (淡蘭古道北路：牡丹/燦光寮古道/貂山古道)
This peaceful part of the northern Tamsui-Kavalan Trails traverses the slopes of the valley south of Jinguashi. Along the way you’ll pass deserted mining settlements, a tomb with a tragic tale, (or two, or three, or four), and a now abandoned dam in the middle of the forest.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: NEIGANJIAO to SHIFEN (淡蘭古道中路：內柑腳/十分)
The stretch of the Tamsui-Kavalan trails leading into Shifen from the south is probably the quietest section of the middle route, but don’t let that put you off. This really has the feel of a functional historic trail, leading you over the hills and across the valley from one village to another. And those who walk it south to north can reward themselves with some snacks from Shifen Old Street.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: DALI to YILAN (淡蘭古道北路：大里/外澳/頭城/礁溪/宜蘭)
This leg of the journey ties up the northern, middle and southern routes on their route into the centre of Yilan. Along the way you can stop to take in some grand coastal scenery, soak up the sun at the surfer beach in Wai'ao, visit Toucheng's historic old street and dip your toes in Jiaoxi's hot spring waters. Although it may not seem like the obvious place to go for a stroll, those who do walk this way will certainly find plenty to keep themselves interested.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: SHUANGXI to DALI (淡蘭古道北路：雙溪/貢寮/草嶺古道/大里)
This part of the Tamsui-Kavalan Trails has two unique claims to fame, not only does it have the oldest original section of path, but it also overlaps with the route that the Japanese took when they marched from Yanliao to modern-day Taipei in 1895.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: FULONG to DALI (淡蘭古道北路：福隆/大里)
This stretch of the northern Tamsui-Kavalan Trails connects the relaxed beach town of Fulong with the fishing villages of Shicheng and Dali. On the way it takes you past the old Caoling Tunnel, and perhaps even follows the route taken by Wusha - the immigrant credited with being ‘the pioneer of Yilan’.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: RUIFANG to FULONG (淡蘭古道北路：瑞芳/九份/福隆)
This section of the Tamsui-Kavalan Trails will lead you through Jiufen and all the way to the sleepy beach town of Fulong. On the way you will get to take a wild wander over some of the less well known trails along Taiwan’s northeastern coast, as well as see traces of a rural way of life that you rarely find close to Taipei.
TAMSUI-KAVALAN TRAILS: PINGXI TOU to WAI’AO (淡蘭古道中路：坪溪頭/外澳)
If you know anyone who isn’t yet sold on the natural and cultural delights of Taiwan, then take them by the hand and lead them to the start of this trail for a condensed highlights-reel version of everything that makes me love this charming island. This portion of the middle Tamsui-Kavalan Trails follows the footsteps of the tea-traders of yesteryear over clear streams and vibrant forests to a mountain top and the coast beyond. Along the way you’ll meet the many gods who they trusted to keep them safe on their travels, and if you’re not utterly smitten with Taiwan by the time you finish, then you don’t have a heart.
TAIWAN: HIDDEN TREASURE OF ASIA
After four years of calling Taiwan my home I found myself taking part in a group tour to visit some areas with special natural characteristics. This is my journal of the experience.
DATIELIAO OLD TRAIL to BAISHI SHAN and JINMIAN SHAN (打鐵寮古道/白石山/十三分山/金面山)
This varied walk follows a beautiful reclaimed historic trail alongside a stream and then climbs to a ridge line with views over Taoyuan City as well as some of the county's more remote villages.
BANPING SHAN AND TEAPOT MOUNTAIN LOOP （半屏山/無耳茶壺山O型)
This is the perfect half-day hike for adventure-seekers who want to explore the many and varied delights of Taiwan’s marvellous northeastern coast.
BIHU PARK AMBLE (碧湖公園)
A very short and simple stroll around a pretty lake. This walk should be an easy one to do if the weather isn’t being cooperative, or if you want to bring the kids.
XIONG KONG NAN SHAN and YUNSEN FALLS (熊空南山/雲森瀑布)
This has definitely been one of my favourite hikes of the year. The walk starts with a reasonable climb through quiet and multi-layered forests to a peak that remained cool and breezy even in the summer heat. Then tracks down again to follow the playful Zhongkeng Stream as it spills and bounces it’s way through the valley. There are mountain views, grand waterfalls and even swimming holes to be enjoyed along the way. I will be adding this to my list of places to take visiting friends.
YONGHE RIDGE LOOP (國旗嶺/鄧公嶺/烘爐地南山福德宮)
Whilst Taipei’s northern and eastern hills tend to get most of the attention, this trail to the southwest of the city has plenty to offer the traveller who strays from the well-trodden trails of Yangmingshan Park. Indeed, as the locals know, Yonghe District has well-trodden paths of its own to explore. This route takes in ancient banyans, views to both the north and the south, all manner of trail types and enough temples to satisfy the very keenest of temple aficionados.
JINMIAN SHAN – a longer route (金面山)
A great trail taking in one of Taipei's most Instagrammable spots. This walk can be done in a morning or afternoon and is easy to get to from the MRT.
Taiwan Trails and Tales 