FIREFLIES and TUNG BLOSSOM in PINGLIN RIVERSIDE PARK

/ taiwantrailsandtales

The four weeks spanning the end of April and the start of May is peak season for fireflies in northern Taiwan. During this time, the usually dark-fearing populace ventures into the hills in search of these enigmatic bugs. If you live in Taiwan — or happen to coincide your visit with firefly season — it is absolutely worth getting out there to experience the magic at least once a year. As a little extra bonus, this time of year also happens to be tung blossom season, and this easy trail in New Taipei’s Pinglin District gives you the opportunity to experience both in one go.

In fact, while you’re at it, why not spend a whole day here. You could have a mooch about Pinglin Old Street, then pop over to 那個咖啡吧 for a pick-me-up before taking in the tung blossom. There’s also the tea museum to explore and plenty of kilometres of riverside path to walk or cycle. For dinner, there are several restaurants along the town’s main drag — I always visit this vegetarian place that has deep-fried tea leaves on the menu (炸茶酥). Then in the evening, head back over to the tung blossom trail to watch the fireflies embarking on their evening escapades.

Distance: The route featured here is about 2 kilometres, but you could cut out half of that if you’re just interested in seeing the fireflies.

Time: 30-60 minutes.

Total ascent: Almost none, maybe 30 metres or so.

Difficulty: This walk is very easy regardless of how much experience you have with hiking in Taiwan. It’s mostly flat, well-signposted (in Chinese) and there are plenty of people around if you visit during firefly season.

Water: I took a 0.5L bottle, but it wasn’t really necessary. If you visit early in the day, there’s a lovely coffee shop here (you need to check its Instagram account to find out whether or not its open on any given day).

Shade: If you visit later in the evening, you won’t need to worry about the shade. In daylight, this trail has some shady sections and some that are exposed.

Mobile network: There’s clear mobile reception along the length of this trail.

Enjoyment: Fireflies, tung blossom, and a cute coffee shop stop — this is peak spring fun in northern Taiwan.

Other: If you’re coming here specifically to see the fireflies, you might want to bring a torch. Specifically, it’s better to have one with red light capabilities so that you don’t disturb the fireflies. That said, many people didn’t bring a torch at all, and when you reach the firefly area, it’s better to turn off all light-emitting devices so that you can fully enjoy the firefly dance.

Bathroom facilities: There is a toilet block on the trail not too far from Pinglin Suspension Bridge.

Route type: Loop

Permit: None needed.

Jump to the bottom of this post for a trail map and GPX file.

Pinglin’s fireflies and tung blossom are mostly located in a small stretch of parkland on the far side of Beishi River from the town, so getting there requires you to cross one of tue several bridges spanning the water. I’d already had a bit of a wander through the town, so I crossed via the suspension bridge.

The upstream view looking back towards most of Pinglin town.

Signs for the firefly viewing location pointed left, but I still had a little time before dusk, so I headed right to make a slightly longer loop. After following the river downstream for a couple of hundred metres, I took the trail leading under the first bridge to head up Dayuku River.

A narrow path runs squished between a mossy wall and the water for a short way before widening slightly where the wall gives way to scrubby undergrowth. This latter section is also a prime firefly photography spot, but it had been staked out by a couple with tripods even as early 5:45.

If you feel like following it, the trail carries on along the river for quite some distance, but since I was firefly hunting, I took the left turn and headed up a track.

The track climbs past a farm shed of sorts, then passes this lovely coffee shop which has outdoor seating, top coffee and a very sweet store dog. (I’d stopped by earlier for coffee before exploring the gardens by Pinglin Tea Museum.)

Heading down past the shop, you’ll soon arrive back at the suspension bridge, but just before you get there, take a right turn, then shortly after that, take a left following directions to the toilets.

I stopped to make use of the facilities, but just as I was unzipping and getting ready to do my thing, I spotted what I thought to be somebody’s unflushed floater bobbing in the toilet. Then, when the poo moved, I rapidly had to readjust my reality to handle the fact that it was a toad, not a turd.

Two foraged sticks and three minutes later, Mr Shit was escorted out of the ladies’ loos and back into the greenery.

The parkland is separated from the river by a scruffy concrete bridge, and although the environment doesn’t look like much, it is exactly the kind of place you often find fireflies — low scrubby plants below a light tree cover and close to water.

It also happens to be home to a grove of tung trees and if you arrive before dusk settles, you can enjoy the elegantly subtle colour scheme of the white-pink-yellow blossoms. (The tung blossom season tends to coincide with or overlap with the firefly season.)

As the night started to gather, so did the photographers with their tripods and lenses. The vast majority were clearly old hands because they’d all gathered around one specific spot with their folding seats and biandang boxes, ready for a long session of big photography. Despite the size of the crowd, once the first glimmers of yellow light were spotted, a hush descended on the scene. Observers spoke in whispers — even the kids — and no one was reckless with with a torch.

I am still absolutely inadequate when it comes to this type of photography, so I tried a mixture of approaches. This first one is a composite with many, many images of the fireflies stacked on top of a background shot that was taken before it got fully dark.

This shot was a two-minute exposure taken from low down looking up to the bamboo leaves. There were actually loads of fireflies up there, but they were too far away to stand out against the background of the much brighter sky.

This final firefly shot was a three-minute exposure focusing on a little side trail near a pond. As you can see, I still need a lot more practise.

While photographing the fireflies, the all-consuming din of the evening’s frog chorus got ever louder and when the light show started to fade, I took a minute to seek out a couple before heading home. Based on sound alone, you would think you’re looking for hefty hoppers, but in fact, they’re teeny tiny.

How to get to Pinglin

Google Maps address: The walk starts from Pinglin Suspension Bridge. If you are coming by car, there’s a carpark at the other end of the town, but people also park along the road in various spots.

GPS location:

  • Bridge trailhead — N24 56.110 E121 42.255
  • Firefly area — N24 55.960 E121 42.425

Public transport: Take either the GR12 or 923 bus from Xindian Station to Pinglin Station and then walk to the trailhead. To get back, it’s the same but in reverse. The last bus is a 923 which departs from Pinglin Station at 21:10.

Further reading: Here’s a little info about a Pinglin firefly trip in Chinese.

Nearby trails:

Pinglin Firefly Trail Map

GPX file available here on Outdoor Active. (Account needed, but the free one works just fine.)

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