SHEN’AO RAIL BIKE (深奧鐵道自行車)

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A gentle ride along one of Keelung’s historic mining routes

Time: The ride itself took fifteen minutes, and waiting for the ride took an equal amount of time. If you’re planning to go both ways, you’ll have to hang around for everyone who set off at the same time as you to arrive at the station before they’ll turn the carriages around.

Difficulty: This is an easy ride, even for people who rarely ride bikes.

Water: You don’t really need to take anything on the ride with you, it’s over so quickly. But it’s worth noting that there are water dispensers at the stations if you have your own bottle to fill up.

Shade: The carriages have a built-in canopy, so you are mostly sheltered from the elements (but if it’s rainy and windy then all bets are off).

Enjoyment: Was it entertaining? Mildy. Would I go again? No. Do I regret going? Also no. If you’re on a budget though, I’d say skip it and save your money for something that will give you more bang for your buck. And don’t go out of your way to come here just for this.

Other: If you’re travelling as a family, it’s worth knowing that each carriage only seats two people.

Route type: Point to point or there and back depending on which ticketing option you choose.

Permit: None needed, but tickets must be booked in advance. (NT$150 one-way, NT$250 for a return ticket.)

Jump to the bottom of this post for information on buying tickets and getting there.

I decided to start my rail bike journey from Shen’ao and head towards Badouzi. I did not know it at the time of booking, but this was a smart move. If you travel in this direction, most of the track goes downhill, so you barely need to pedal at all! You cannot miss the Shen’ao station. It is guarded by these large mascots.

A quick note about the mascots: The three are called Ebbi, Tobi and Mobi, are drawn from the local landscape, and are fuly fleshed-out characters replete with pet peeves, aspirations and catchphrases. Ebbi the elephant is based on Shen’ao Elephant Trunk Rock, has goals of environmental protection, and is known for saying “Calling out for love on the coast of Shen’ao.” (No, I’m not sure either.) Tobi is the personification of the area’s tofu rocks, will mutate into stinky tofu when provoked, and likes to tell people “I am tofu, not a sugar cube”. (This just seems like an abdication of responsibility on the part of the design team. “But how do we let people know it’s not a sugar cube?” “I know! Let’s give it a Finally, the unfortunate Mobi was inspired by the region’s mountains and is described as being “slow-witted and marginalised”. I have to assume something is lacking in the translation of that last one because… poor Mobi!

I checked in about 10-15 minutes before my allotted departure time. This was done by showing the QR code I’d received by email to the staff at the ticket desk. She gave me a stamp on my hand and told me to wait on the platform.

When it’s time to go, the staff move you forward to your carriage and ask you to demonstrate you can use the break before allowing you to set off. Pasted to the front of each carriage are multiple warnings and reminders. The one with the QR code promises and audio introduction, but predictably unfortunately it’s only available in Chinese.

Being a solo pedaller meant that I had to work a bit harder to get going, and the cart in front of me zoomed ahead quite quickly. (The ride is short though, so I feel vindicated about taking it at a slower pace.) The first section takes you though arched and heart-shaped trellises. In the daytime, they’re nothing special, but pictures of them at night show them all lit up and looking quite beautiful.

If you visit in daylight hours, the most exciting part will undoubtedly be the tunnel. When you first enter, there are video projections on the walls, then you enter a trippy light tunnel (the lights twinkle and pulse a little, but not dramatically so).

There are also sound effects which are something of a cross between whale sounds, train sounds and ambient music.

If you’re a little hesitant about entering tunnels, you don’t need to worry. Even at my slow-coach pace, it was over in two minutes. The tunnel rejoins the road right behind the twinned Zhongxiao and Guigong Dashen Temples. (This latter one is a really interesting name, it looks like it could be translated as Big Turtle God Temple–and indeed, there’s a special, turtle-esque rock inside.) The rails head gently down the coast, again with more illuminated features that are more attractive at night.

The rails head gently down parallel to the coast–again with more illuminated features that are more attractive at night.

As the tracks near Badouzi Station, they pass behind a row of houses. Watch out for jaywalking pedestrians crossing the railway to get to coffee shops–I nearly took down a woman who appeared from an alley and went to cross over without looking.

One of the many artistic renditions of the railbike’s mascots that adorn surfaces alongside the tracks.

Rather quickly, I was rolling into Badouzi Station and two young workers were grabbing my carriage and turning it around for the next set of customers.

How to book Shen’ao Rail Bike Tickets
How to get to Shen’ao Rail Bike Station

Google maps address: If you’re coming using your own transport, you can aim for either the Badouzi or Shen’ao Rail Bike Station.

Public transport: You have a couple of options for getting to Shen’ao Rail Bike depending on which station you want to start from.

  • Getting to Shen’ao Station by train and bus – Take any train to Keelung. Then from >Chenghuang Temple Stop you can catch the 791 through the city to the coastal road and alight at Jianji Coal Mine.
  • Getting to Badouzi Station by train – You can catch any train heading towards Ruifang. Alight at Ruifang. You need to tap out and then tap in again to board the Pingxi Line. (If you’re unsure, there’s a kiosk on the platform where you can ask for help.) Board the Pingxi Line heading in the direction of Badouzi. Ride the train to its final stop and then walk up the road for a minute.
  • Getting to Badouzi Station by train and bus – Take any train to Keelung. Then from Chenghuang Temple Stop you can catch the 791 through the city to the coastal road and alight at Badouzi Station. Similarly, the 103 and 104 leave from the nearby Zhongyi Road Xiaoyi Road Intersection and go the same way out towards Badouzi and alight at Badouzi Station. Just be careful to wait at the right bus stop, they’re both right next to each other bus buses only stop at one or the other.

Further reading:

  • Shen’ao station – N25 07.746 E121 48.860
  • Badouzi station – N25 08.065 E121 48.285

Nearby trails:

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