The Raknus Selu is a long-distance hiking trail that shimmies down Taiwan’s northwestern shoulder from Longtan District in Taoyuan, through Hsinchu, through Miaoli, to finish up in Taichung’s Dongshi Township. The main route is around 220 kilometers, but a web of connected routes takes that total up to around 380 kilometres. The main route is referred to as the Raknus Selu A route, and each section is given a name, from RSA01 to RSA60 (indicated in red on the map below). The sections seem a little arbitrary at first glance, but there is logic behind it. Each numbered part represents a section that is somehow discrete from what’s before and after it, so even though a section of historic trail may only be 500 metres, it is still given its own number. The secondary trails (indicated in pink on the map below) either go by their own names or are called Raknus Selu B routes. As of December 2024, I have completed the RSA routes, but I still have a few B routes left to explore.
The route cuts through lands that are home to Taiwan’s Indigenous population — specifically, the Tayal and Sasiyat tribes — as well as regions that have become Hakka strongholds, and it was this blend of cultures that informed the trail’s name. “Raknus” is the Tayal name for the camphor tree, a species that once grew in large quantities on Taiwan’s hills, and which became a precious commodity for the settlers who later claimed Taiwan’s land as their own. The second part of the name, “Selu”, is the Hakka word for “small road” — like the historic footpaths and backroads that make up most of the route. In English, the trail is also sometimes called the Camphor Trail, but I feel Raknus Selu better captures the essence of the walk.
It’s also worth noting that this is not really the kind of long-distance hiking trail that hikers from Europe or the Americas are used to. If your goal is to pound out 30+ kilometres a day and complete the route in a week, you’ll be left feeling miffed. This trail suits a slower pace. Stopping in the towns, interacting with the locals, observing the living culture, learning about the region’s historic sites, enjoying locally grown seasonal produce — these are the elements of walking the Raknus Selu that have stuck with me.
So, with that in mind, if you’re looking for a walk that can bring you a deeper understanding of Taiwan’s culture, the Raknus Selu might just be the trail for you.
Raknus Selu Main Trail
The routes featured here follow the main Raknus Selu Trail, from RSA01 to RSA60. I spent 17 days walking these in total because of the logistics of doing section hikes and because I wanted to walk both of the two alternate sections (days 3, 11, and 12 all have two options). However, if you were doing this as a through-hike, 12-14 days would be reasonable.
Raknus Selu B Routes
This part is still a work in progress.
Taiwan Trails and Tales 